"I wish I had invented blue jeans," declared Yves Saint Laurent. Bill Blass called Levi's "the best single item of apparel ever designed."
In his book, Jeans, A Cultural History of An American Icon, James Sullivan catalogs denim's path to such acclaim.
The book though, is much more than just a history of the people who wore them and the context in which they were worn. It's central lesson is that the success of denim jeans is more of a cultural phenomenon than a marketing achievement.
Here are a few examples of the cultural influences that turned the most ubiquitous pants into icons…
As far back as 150 years ago, miners and cowboys used them for practical purposes - they needed tough, durable pants for hard labor.
Factory workers continued to rely on them during the subsequent machine age - building a country and fighting two world wars. Not only did denim pants become a requisite part of the working class uniform, but more importantly, they had become an important part of working class identity.
In the 1950's, Hollywood glamorized them. Thanks to astute costume designers who dressed new young talent like Brando, Dean, and even Elvis in jeans for roles that created a new kind of sex symbol - the rebel. This is where jeans take on mythical status, never turning back.
No longer were jeans solely the pants of the underclass, as teenagers raced out to buy denim in mass to be part of the new ‘teenage’ identity, giving birth to a new ‘casual-wear’ dress code.
For the next two decades jeans would cement their connection with the youth movement and counterculture.
Beat poets wore them. Artists like Jackson Pollack and Andy Warhol made a point of wearing jeans. Kerouac took them "On The Road" illustrating that jeans were no longer just accessories, but could help define a character. Dylan, Zeppelin, and everyone in between wore jeans turning them into the official uniform of rock 'n roll.
By the late 70’s marketing flexed its muscles and Designer Jeans were born. But by then, jeans had already taken their place as a cultural icon.
So that raises an interesting question, and for me, is the real value of the book: What is the role of marketing for denim?
Perhaps marketing should reinforce the role that jeans have played and continue to play in culture, rather than trying to reinvent a new one. Right now, for example, Levi’s is focusing on the relationship between the person and their jeans, rather than the relationship between culture and denim, which may be a more interesting area to be in. This book, and the events surrounding denim's rise to fame that it describes, seem to suggest so.
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